Our Italian Adventure: Part Tre - Trailblazing in Tuscany

 Pisa

Wifey's lunch: large chunks of porcini mushrooms!

   What Tuscan holiday would be complete without a trip to the university town of Pisa? Pisa is a convenient train ride away from Florence. No prior planning is needed. Purchase a ticket at one of the ticketing machines at the Santa Maria Novella station and you'll be on your way. We arrived at the Pisa station and made our way across the Arno River into the historical part of the city. Stopping for lunch, it is here that the wifey had her first taste of cantuccini. This consists of twice baked (to harden and dry the dough) cookies (also known as biscotti) which is dipped into sweet desert wine and eaten as a desert. We were expected to finish the wine as well. However, even the wifey, who usually could down a few glasses, found it tough to finish the alcohol.

Cantuccini.

    Pisa is in fact a quaint town worth spending some time exploring. However most people would head straight to the it's main attraction - the "leaning tower" in the Piazza del Duomo. The attractions in the Piazza include the Cathedral, Baptistery, the Campo Santo (walled cemetery), and of course the leaning Campanile (or bell tower). Don't bother fighting for space to take pictures immediately when you reach the Piazza. A better vantage point can be found behind the tower, in front of the ticket office and gift shop. In fact, this little piece of meadow doubles as an excellent picnic spot.

View from the 2nd floor of the Baptistery.

     The entrance to the Battistero di San Giovanni (Baptistery of St. John) directly faces the cathedral. It has been suggested that this symbolized the welcome of the initiate into fellowship with the rest of the congregation after the ritual of Baptism. A fact that many tourist would miss, is that every half an hour, a guard will demonstrate the excellent acoustics of the Baptistery by calling out from the center of the monument. It was indeed a eye-opener (ear-opener?) when his voice traversed around and around the vast interior. It was as if a choir of angels were present - yet all originating from the vocals of one person.

Guard demonstrating the excellent acoustic quality.

    We spent the rest of the day walking through the town, enjoying a cup of cappuccino, and dog-watching (the dogs here are more entertaining than the humans). 

    Choosing Florence as our base was a strategic decision. This allowed us to venture out to the rest of the Tuscan countryside (besides Pisa). We duly booked a day trip to explore the rest of this picturesque region. On the way out we even traveled through the Carrara region and witness the white mountains where Michelangelo sourced his marble. I'll let the photos speak for themselves...

San Gimignano

    This walled medieval town is famous for its towers. It is not surprising that San Gimignano is also known as the Manhattan of the medieval world. Wealthy families sought to outdo each other in this extravagant show of affluence.

Towers in the background.

View from the fortress at the top of the town.

Raw white truffles. And they are REALLY CHEAP!
We'll go truffle hunting next time.

Chianti Region 

    We were introduced to the region of Chianti and it's wines (the Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, and the Super Tuscan). The best Chianti wines are labelled with a Black Rooster. Legend has it that in the 13th Century, rival cities Siena and Florence decided to end their war with a race. Two soldiers were to race at dawn (when their rooster crows) from their respective cities. The meeting point was to be the border. The Florentines kept a black rooster in a box for days without food. On the appointed dawn, this rooster sang out much earlier (supposedly from hunger). Thus the Florentine soldier set off much earlier. In fact, the two met only 20 km from the Siena's walls, handing a resounding victory to Florence.

Siena

Flags of the 17 Contrade.

    This city has been a long-time rival of Florence. Besides militarily, they competed for influence over trade and culture. Unfortunately for it, it lost out eventually. Nevertheless, I feel that the Duomo here (although never completed according to the original grand blueprint) beats that in Florence. Siena also has something that Florence will never have - the annual Palio de Siena. This is a bareback horse race dating back to medieval days. Riders representing seventeen Contrade (city neighbourhoods originally formed as battalions for defence. Reminds of the "districts" in Hunger Games) vie for a trophy (a painted banner with the image of Virgin Mary).

Town hall and Piazza del Campo in front of it.

The Duomo

Grand interior.

Siena - centre of Italy (or so it fancies itself)

Besides the Palio, Siena is also known for its art (i.e. the Sienese School)

Monteriggioni

    This was our final medieval town of the day. We first spotted the town from a distance. It's imposing walls rose from the horizon like something out of the Lord of the Rings. The coach pulled into the parking lot and we had to make our way up a somewhat winding road to the top of the hill. This was where the town of Monteriggioni sat. When we finally reached the town walls, it didn't look that intimidating. In fact, the town proved much smaller than we thought at first. The little piazzas that dotted this place gave it a fairy tale-like atmosphere. It was almost "dainty".

Last stop.

    Here ends our adventure in Tuscany. Next, we were on to Milan. Stay tune...

Our Italian Adventure: Part Due - Careering around Cinque Terre

    Being the beach bum that she is, it wasn't surprising that the wifey planned a day trip out to Cinque Terre (pronounced "chin-kway-teh-rey"). Cinque Terre consists of five sea-side villages, located in the region of Liguria and near the town of La Spezia. The whole Cinque Terre National Park, consisting of the villages, adjoining hillside and  coastline, is a Unesco World Heritage site (yes, another one under the belt).

    As the tour bus neared the first town, the terrain began to slope upwards. Wasn't this supposed to be a coastal village? What were we doing, going up into the mountains? My doubts were soon relieved when we disembarked and made our way down (literally) into the first village - Manarola.

Railway station in the far background.

    From Manarola, we took the metro to our next stop, Corniglia. As the train pulled into the station, the village was nowhere to be seen. It was soon pointed out to us that Corniglia is situated at the top of the nearby hill. We then commenced the climb. What a climb it was. I fancy myself to be in pretty good shape (afterall, I do work out regularly and the doc said my heart was in pretty good shape) but soon my tighs were burning with the exertion and perspiration pour down my brow. The guide wasn't joking when he said we had to "work for our lunch". Unbeknownst to us, it was a precursor of tougher things to come. We ambled through Corniglia and arrived at a little hill-top restaurant with a fantastic view. Lunch was then served.

Lunch

    With our bellies satisfied, we soon found out why we were served carbohydrates. I knew that there was a trek somewhere in the schedule but I never expected what was to follow. We were supposed to trek through the mountains to the next village. The guide told us that there were once three elderly women who had too much to drink during lunch. In the end they took almost three hours to finish the trek. We were soon on our way.

Happy faces before the climb. I never expected what was to come.

Leaving the town behind (you can see it at the far left of the
picture. Tiny tiny far away...)

    The route started off pretty innocently at first, just a casual climb, not unlike something you'd experience on Bukit Timah Hill. Then the terrain started getting steeper and more rocky. We were no longer stepping on forest floor. Every step we took was cut into the rocky face of the mountain. At times, the path could only fit one person. The alternative to waiting for your turn was a flight down the mountainside to certain demise. It didn't help that the sun was beating down on our heads mercilessly. Each new step seemed more torturous than the one before. Soon my legs began to cramp and I felt a tongue of headache approaching. The one litre bottle of water I had in my backpack felt like a tonne.

Eking out a smile... Press On! 

The wifey on the other hand, skipped ahead, as if on fairy wings. In the glare of the noonday sun, it almost looked as though she had Hermes wings on her feet.

The view on the way was actually quite calming, if not for the terrain and the sun.

     No choice; turning back was not an option. Endure. Press on. I was reminded of the time I spent in National Service (NS). One thing I'd learnt was that the human body could take much more punishment than we ever imagine. One step after another. Finally in the distance there arose the faint silhouette of a tower. The rest of the village soon crept into view - civilisation at last!

Civilization at last!

Down through the narrow streets of Vernazza, between multicoloured residences we went. Straight down to the quayside, to one of the most popular attractions in the village, the gelato shop. It tasted like heaven. It was here that the wifey decided to enjoy the pristine waters of the bay. Then off we went again, by metro to Monterosso al Mare.

The quay at Vernazza.

Monterosso: the most touristy of the lot

The approach to Riomaggiore.

    Our final stop was Riomaggiore. This time we approached by ferry. The ferry hugged the coastline as we slowly made our way to our final stop. Suddenly the bare hills broke out into colour. It was as if the red yellow and blue of Riomaggiore was flowing from the green mountain behind, towards the sea, just stopping short of the beach. It was sight to behold. It is at this busiest village of Cinque Terrestrial that we found the most delicious calamari. The fried anchovies and fish slices were excellent too, but it was the calamari that took the cake.

Some of the best calamari in the world.

     Then it was back on the train, to la Spieza and our tour bus. And that was how we spent a day at Cinque Terre.

Our Italian Adventure: Part Uno - Frolicking in Firenze

    Rolling pastures and sun-scorched greenery greeted the eye as the train rushed headlong into the heart of Tuscany. It wasn't long before we arrived at the Santa Maria Novella station in Firenze (Florence), Italy. Thanks to the ingenuity of the wife, our home for the next week was situated right smack between the train station and the historic heart of the city; from here we will venture forth on this new adventure.

View from our balcony.

Florentine Art, History, & Culture

    After a night of much needed rest, we were up early and all ready for what was to be a crash course in European art history. First stop, the Uffizi Gallery. This museum showcases the art collected by the then powerful House of Medici. From here we can trace the evolution of art, from the Middle ages, followed by the Renaissance, the Baroque, Neo-classical stage, and finally the art that we have closer to the modern day (such as the that of the impressionist movement). We were taught how to differentiate art from the Middle Ages from that of the Renaissance.

An example of a sculpture from the Middle Ages: Very stylized, expressionless, poised as if taking a formal photo, restricted within it's niche.

Now contrast the above with another sculpture on the same facade of the same building. Renaissance: fluidity of movement, harking back to classical Greek and Roman statues, partly outside it's niche - drawing the viewer into the work.

Michelangelo's Holy Family: an example of late Renaissance art attempting to "explode" into the Baroque.

   

Entrance to the Vasari Corridor

The tour culminated with us transiting through the Vasari Corridor. This "secret" passage starts behind an unmarked door and runs across the Ponte Vacchio, connecting the Uffizi Museum to the Palazzo Pitti, on the opposite bank of the Arno River. This corridor allowed us to travel above the heads of the crowd below. More importantly, this corridor houses the largest gallery of self-portraits in the world. Masters from the Middle Ages all the way to the more recent impressionists.

Vasari Corridor

Looking down on unsuspecting people on the Ponte Vacchio

    If you do go for this tour, try to end it before reaching the Palazzo Pitti. This allows you free access to the Boboli Gardens behind the palace. Such was what we did. Although the guide books extol the Boboli Gardens as the inspiration for other European gardens such as the one at Versailles, we found it a tad disappointing.

View from the top of the Boboli Gardens, city in the distance.

    The main attraction of Florence is arguably its Duomo and the surrounding architecture. This complex consists of the cathedral at the center, surrounded by the bell tower, baptistery and other religious buildings. There's no point climbing both the bell tower and the Duomo's cupola as the viewers are almost identical. Our first stop was the bell tower as we didn't want to squeeze with other tourists that were expected to flood the area later in the day. Another tip for would be travellers; visit the Baptistery first if the queue to the main cathedral is too long.

Climbing Giotto's Bell Tower, up the 414 steps

View from halfway up the tower

     Besides the Uffizi Gallery, another place art aficionados should not miss is the Academia. What I appreciate about the Florentine art museums is the conciseness with which the works are displayed. The Academia is no different. It only takes a couple of hours to take in all the art. I totally agree with Shakespere that a "surfeit of the sweetest things, the greatest loathing to the stomach brings". We bought reserved tickets a few days before. Don't be fooled. Even with reserved tickets, we still had to join a queue. Albeit, the queue was the shorter one.

Michelangelo's David

    It is here that we admired the original Michelangelo's David; in all 4m of unclothed glory (do not confuse it with the pretender standing in Piazza Vacchio, outside the Palazzo). "Amazing" doesn't start to describe this incredible piece of Renaissance work. Every muscle, sinew, vein and hair is described as realistically as marble allows. Unlike other classical sculptures, Michelangelo did not over-emphasize the subject's musculature. You can almost imagine David's marble skin being sheer, soft and malleable. The wife was so taken by this piece that my state of fitness might now forever be compared to that of an inanimate stylized sculpture.
    On a different note, there is a lesson we can learn. David was formed from a slab of marble abandoned in a church yard. Yet this forlon piece of stone, when placed in the hands of the master craftsman, was transformed into a masterpiece that is enjoyed by thousands, for centuries to come. If we are willing to surrender ourselves to the Lord, I believe He can make us into something beautiful too.
    Another work of note that can be found here is the second of Michelangelo's three Pietas. The Palestrina Pieta seems unfinished and indeed it stands along with other unfinished Michelangelo sculptures. (Note: although attributed to Michelangelo, no one is certain of its origin or the sculptor)

Food, Glorious Food

    The "bang bang" of metal against bone and wood will assail your ears when you enter any Florentine restaurant worth its salt. These places sound as much a butcher shop as eateries. The reason for this is of course the Bistecca Florentina - Florentine Beefsteak. This monster of a T-bone steak is usually served medium rare (emphasis on rare), in portions of at least 1kg.

The wifey's favourite dessert at La Sostanza

Roast chicken and traditional white beans

    Florence is littered with many small restaurants. As a rule of thumb, we'd not enter one that provides "menu touristico". We're here for the local and authentic. Drop by into one of these quaint shops and you might be surprised to find that it actually is an award-winning establishment that even the locals patronise.

Florentine Tripe - yes a whole pot of tripe. Definitely a Must-try.

Oooo look at that

   We had wanted to try this restaurant that was recommended by the Hotel, Mama Chinta (or something like that). But it was closed when we got there. No worries, just hop into the next restaurant down down the road. Boy did we find a treasure trove. The place: Osteria Del Cinghiale Bianco. This osteria is located across the river from the main tourist sites. Cross the Ponte S. Tranita, right of Ponte Vacchio (if you face the river with your back to the Uffizi). Excellent food at super afforable prices. Where can you find shaved truffle on buffalo cheese, porcini tagliatelle and dessert at less than 50 Euros?

The Green Rom of the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy

    One place that defies categorisation, yet must be mentioned, is the ancient Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy, the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella. Originally part of the cloister compound of the Santa Maria Novella church, the entrance is now found along Via della Scala (no. 16), around the left corner of the Grand Hotel Minerva. Established by the Dominican friars of the church in 1221, the pharmacy became famous for its salves, fragrances and skincare products. Today the pharmacy is in private hands. Even with the advent of modern methods, each batch of products is still hand-made and supervised according to age old recipes and artisanal methods.

    From Florence, we took day-trips out to the surrounding Tuscan countryside. But's that's another story for another time...

Birthday at Babette

    How time flies, it's once again time to celebrate the wifey's birthday. As usual, she'll have some place in mind that she'd like to try out. This year we're off to Babette, a restaurant/ bar situated at Parc Sovereign Hotel, along Tyrwhitt Road. Although marketed as a "restro-bar", you wouldn't find anyone outside at the counter in this sweltering heat. The first thing I noticed is the lack of a dress code. Decked out in my polo-tee, jeans and brown leather shoes, I felt somewhat overdressed. The other guys were in berms and (*Gasp!) flip-flops.

    Babette draws its inspiration from the 1980s film "Babette's Feast", which is about how a good chef can transform a dinner into a love affair. It is precisely this reason that the wifey chose this place. For starters we had the sous vide Octopus Tempura. One would think that using the sous vide method would make it more tender. However, this was not the case. The batter tasted simple and "home-made" and not in the positive sense, not something that you'd expect from a good restaurant.

Top marks for presentation. Not so for taste.

    Next came the Grilled Asparagus in garlic miso cream. I wasn't expecting much from this dish and honestly, it didn't look like much. A surprise was in store. The asparagus was cooked just right, not too crunchy and not too soggy. The miso cream was of the right consistency. It made the asparagus that much smoother. The deep fried ginger garnish was also an excellent complement. It's tanginess contrasted nicely with the milky-sweetness of the cream, bringing out the best in the asparagus.

Worth a try.

    The starters ended with the arrival of the Crackling Pork Belly. Now this is something to shout about. The dish arrived with thick chunky slices. The 48 hours of slow cooking had really done its job. Pop one piece into your mouth and the first thing you'll encounter is the crunching of the crispy skin. This is followed by the sinking of your teeth into tender meat, as the fat melts away almost simultaneously. For those who cannot take food that is too spicy, the accompanying whole-grain mustard sauce is for you. Slather a generous helping on your meat and experience how it brings out the flavour.

 

Crackling Pork Belly and Babette Chirashi Donburi - both looking equally enticing but oh so different in giving satisfaction.

    We chose the Babette Chirash Donburi for main. It looked promising enough but turned out to be a bitter disappointment. Firstly, the ingredients were not cold enough. Instead of complementing the sashimi, the warm rice prevented us from assessing it's freshness. This resulted in a dish that is neither refreshingly cool nor pippingly appetizing. Who serves warm rice in chirashi don anyway? Some people may enjoy the contrast of hard crunchy pickles against the soft squishiness of sashimi but not I. Besides, the pickles could've been more sour. It was almost akin to eating raw carrots. I would also prefer tuna roe to tobiko any day. Verdict: don't bother trying this dish. All looks and no substance.

    In the end, although we were quite full, we decided to give Babette a chance at redemption. The signature Macha Lava Cake took 20mins to prepare. Frankly it didn't feel very long because I was in good company. First impression, it held a lot of promise.

    As the restaurant would describe it: this is a "green tea infused white chocolate fondant served with home-made azuki red bean ice-cream". Slice into the "cake" and dark green "white" chocolate oozes out. The cloying sweetness almost stung my tongue, as I savoured the sticky goodness of the green tea infused chocolate. With each spoonful of green gooey goodness, I edged closer to the precipice of "over sweetness". Just when I thought I would fall over, a wave of refreshing coolness swept me backwards, as I relished the taste of home-made ice-cream on my palate. Not wanting to lose the sweetness that I just discovered, I delved again into the green softness. This time, the bite of mint brought me back. A spoonful of ice-cream now tasted a tad bland. This was immediately resolved by the intrusion of azuki reds.

 

    To wash it all down, we had a tall glass of yuzu beer. To conclude, Babette is not a place for important celebrations. However, I wouldn't mind chilling out here. Food-wise, there are hits and misses. I probably won't be back too quickly. Maybe I'll try their other offerings in the future.